So the first part of the burn the gas body that I’m breaking into is to do with temperature regulation there’s a little alcohol stat probe that was attached to this body here and it’s also got bellows on it as they usually do so as the water temperature at the top of the coil gets hotter because the alcohol stat went to the side of the coil body as the water temperature gets higher the pressure on this bellows increases and it actually regulates the gas pressure going to the body so that when it’s cold it’ll be putting a lot of pressure on the body and increasing the gas pressure but as soon as the water heats up beyond all approaches.
It’s maximum operating temperature the pressure inside the way the wax or alcohol stat increases and it turns the gas off by itself so that’s part of its own safety regulation system a nice little alloy casting and that’s about it a little copper bellows again I’m not really interested in scrap metal at this point it’s worth bugger-all at the moment and not really worth my time to pull it out so it all goes into the same bin the scrapyard guy gives me a lot of stuff for free so I repay him by dumping this stuff in his bins for free anyway it’s a suppose you call it a fair trade agreement haha something like that outside this or disassembled the rest of this body that’s the feed line for the pilot light there that’s not actually attached to that tube there either.
I thinking that’s to do with the air resistance it might be a resistance based thing because there was also a wire going to it in there so I’m not too sure how that works but we’ll find out anyway let’s remove this okay so taking the pilot temperature sander or I suppose activity sender off reveals the main part of the gas body and also a filter screen because that’s coming through from here which is in turn connected into the intake this is the inlet so an inlet filter which is actually remarkably clean not only get a lot of yellow crap and gas pipe tape and stuff stuck to them it’s the first time I’ve seen one this clean yeah that’s a stat evidently there is some kind of pressure sensing on it not too sure now there’s actually a copper coil in there of some kind of solenoid it’s odd it’s electrical or whatever it is hmm must be our electrically isolated mm an electromagnetic coil it’s a electromagnet huh so it’s not actually a pressure state like a wax state or something it’s a electrical control electromagnet so that’s your gas shutoff when the pilot is hot it must stay open as soon as the pilot cools down too much the current flow to the coils decreases.
So it closes the gas off the power goes out it shuts the burner down no guess explosions and unwanted fires that is gas flow that’s gas flow to the burner wrack burner axe screws on the top here that’s a valve spring loaded cause I’m guessing it only releases once there’s back pressure it’s fairly tight spring though oh no sorry this is also piloted by the pressure from underneath gas pressures not enough to compress that spring no way so without water flow this Springs strong enough to push down and seal gas off from the burner so that as long as there’s hot water in the or sorry no water flow going to the heater on going through the natural gas water heater reviews I should say as long as you don’t have a hot water tap turned on the house this is bearing down on the seat and shutting off the gas you won’t get the burners to run but as soon as you turn on the tap pressure from this or flux a flow from this pushes a pin in site up which pilots this upwards.
So if I pull that out yeah there’s a pit the spindle in there which depresses this valve so water flow occurs in the water body the water valve this opens gas rushes through the burner rack and you got fire you’ve got to heat turn the water off this closes no gas no fire no heat really straightforward it’s pressure differential again just a pressure differential valve so that spring another a seat walk seat that yeah that’s what operates it it’s fairly stiff but up there it works then it it probably has a fairly tight seals anyway since its sealing between air and water and then gas you gotta have some fairly stiff seals and our mains pressures average about 80 to 100 psi and you know that little pin in there when water flow occurs through this valve body that little pin inside will pop out depress that and allow gas through to the main burners and away you go so that’s really simple I’m learning as I go it’s always fun I hope you are too this video is going to be fairly long and that’s a good thing I’m working tomorrow anyway so I might start the upload in the morning so one thing I hate about where I am uploads a slow and that’s why you don’t see so many long detailed videos I get requests all the time for really long detailed videos but unfortunately.
I can’t really upload a couple of gigabytes without something failing and destroying it which is a pain in the ass because I wish I could I need a fiberoptic yeah shell out some money and see if I can get fiber-optic installed then we’ll be coming with fire no pun intended anyway let’s finish off this gas valve it’s high high low and off and piezo igniter and the piezo does work it’s like hell to exert myself before we’re making the old-fashioned spud guns with my cordless cordless has a five millimeter tap in another driver big answer I would do this the old-fashioned way it’s not hard to figure out once you understand pressure differential and just the physics of it all it wasn’t hard to figure out how this thing worked so they caught that could also be pilot ignition sorry that’s probably your main on but that’s your pile of ignition and then it won’t work without it.